Citations:
1984 David Wilck @ Moose, Wyo. Christian Science Monitor (Aug. 29) “Facing down fears and scaling peaks in the Grand Tetons” p. 19: Bridwell demonstrates the two types of foot holds: smearing, in which the foot is flat to the rock, and edging, where the boot is used to wedge into the rock. 1984 Jennifer Meadows Dallas Morning News (Texas) (Nov. 2) “Novice discovers the pain, pleasure and danger of rock climbing in nearby Wichita Mountains” p. 20B: The trick, Sutton explained, to climbing a friction slab, is a motion called “smearing,” in which the palms of the climber’s hands, fingers pointing down, and the balls of his rubber-soled shoes are pushed into and twisted against the granite’s surface. With his rump high in the air so that his weight is distributed evenly over the smear spots, the climber spider-walks up the surface. 1990 John Long Climbing Magazine (Feb.-Mar.) “DNB: Direct North Buttress, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley” @ Usenet: rec.climbing (Oct. 2, 1992) Tim Schneider “The DNB”: Climbers encounter virtually every technique somewhere in its 2000 feet, though the most exciting sections entail steep edging and smearing, plus a knack for finding the easiest line. 2005News & Star (Carlisle, England) (Apr. 2) “My Rocky Horror Show”: To make progress you have to use a technique called smearing, where you push your foot into the rock and lever yourself up for a handhold.